News
Feature Article
Mapping a Path for Culinary Careers

Cooking, baking, managing, producing, distilling, brewing, distributing, planning, marketing, writing, editing, photographing, filming, selling, designing—the career opportunities in the food industry today are seemingly endless. Culinary Careers: How to Get Your Dream Job in Food, with Advice from Top Culinary Professionals (Clarkson Potter, May 2010) is the only career book to offer candid portraits of dozens and dozens of coveted jobs at all levels to help you find your dream job.

 

Because so many career paths are possible, it can be hard to find out exactly what job would best suit oneself, or how to go about obtaining it, short of talking to everyone. In Culinary Careers, ICE President Rick Smilow and co-author Anne E. McBride did just that: They talked to people in all aspects of the industry about their education, career path, and day-to-day activities. They conceived Culinary Careers as a comprehensive guide to help students, career changers, prep cooks looking to move up, weary chefs in need of a new way to use their skills, budding food writers, or aspiring winemakers go about their job search and learn more about the industry as a whole.

 

* Get the ultimate in advice from those at the very pinnacle of the industry, including Thomas Keller, Daniel Boulud, Lidia Bastianich, David Chang, and Ruth Reichl.

* Read about the inspiring—and sometimes unconventional—paths individuals took to reach their current positions in 89 in-depth profiles.

* Learn what a food stylist’s day on the set of a major motion picture is like, how a top New York City restaurant publicity firm got off the ground, what to look for in a yacht crew before jumping on board as the chef, and so much more.

* Find out what employers look for, and how you can put your best foot forward in interviews.

 

Click here to see the Table of Contents, list of featured chefs and a selection of interview answers.

 

Table of Contents

 

Part I:  What You Need to Know

 

1. Getting Started and Training 9

 

2. Career Development and Growth 35

 

3. Ownership and Entrepreneurship 58

 

4. Lessons from the Stratosphere 74

Thomas Keller, chef-owner, The French Laundry, Yountville, CA; cookbook author 76

Daniel Boulud, chef-owner, Restaurant Daniel, New York, NY; cookbook author 78

Rick Bayless, chef-owner, Topolobampo, Chicago, IL; television host; cookbook author 81

John Besh, chef-owner, Restaurant August, New Orleans, LA; cookbook author 83

Lidia Bastianich, chef-owner, Felidia, New York, NY; television host, PBS; cookbook author 86

David Chang, chef-owner, Momofuku, New York, NY 88

Dan Barber, chef-owner, Blue Hill, New York, NY 90

Gale Gand, pastry chef and co-owner, Tru, Chicago, IL; television host; cookbook author 92

François Payard, chef-owner, Payard Pâtisserie & Bistro, New York, NY; cookbook author 94

Ruth Reichl, former editor in chief, Gourmet magazine; author 96

Michael Ruhlman, author 98

Ari Weinzweig, owner, Zingerman’s, Ann Arbor, MI; author 100

Jennifer Baum, owner, Bullfrog and Baum public relations firm 102

Susan Spungen, food stylist and cookbook author 104

 

Part II:  Jobs, Career Paths, and Profiles

 

5. Cooking 109

Graham Elliot Bowles, chef-owner, Graham Elliot, Chicago, IL 116

Kelly Liken, chef-owner, Kelly Liken and Rick and Kelly’s American Bistro, Vail, CO 119

Joseph Wrede, chef-owner, Joseph’s Table, Taos, NM 122

George McNeill, corporate executive chef, Ritz-Carlton Hotel Company, Chevy Chase, MD 124

Jason Robinson, chef, Inn at Dos Brisas, Washington, TX 127

Katie Button, line cook, the Bazaar by Jose Andres, Los Angeles, CA 130

Chris Hensel, executive chef, Children’s Hospital, Dallas, TX 132

Pilar Taylor, yacht chef, Fort Lauderdale, FL 135

Einav Gefen, research chef, Unilever, Englewood Cliffs, NJ 138

Jason Gronlund, executive chef and director of culinary and ingredient sales, McIlhenny Company

Tabasco brand products, Orlando, FL 141

 

6. Pastry and Baking 144

Mindy Segal, chef-owner, Mindy’s HotChocolate, Chicago, IL 148

Erin McKenna, founder and owner, BabyCakes, New York, NY 150

Lucy Martin, executive pastry chef, Marriott Orlando World Center Resort, Orlando, FL 152

Chris Hanmer, executive pastry chef, Ritz-Carlton, Las Vegas, NV 155

Michael Laiskonis, executive pastry chef, Le Bernardin, New York, NY 158

Kimberly Schwenke, pastry chef, 312 Chicago, Chicago, IL 160

Elisa Strauss, head designer and owner, Confetti Cakes, New York, NY 163

David Guas, pastry chef–owner, Damgoodsweets Consulting Group, McLean, VA 166

Dan Griffin, production manager, Pearl Bakery, Portland, OR 168

 

7. Catering, Events, Personal and Private Chef Work 171

Jim Horan, caterer-owner, Blue Plate, Chicago, IL 175

Mark Klein, director of conferences and catering, the Broadmoor, Colorado Springs, CO 179

Scott Wagner, caterer-owner, ChileCo Catering, San Diego, CA 182

Jonathan Bodnar, caterer-owner, Very Tall Chef, Napa, CA 184

Christina Landrum, director of catering, OC Restaurant and Bar, Houston, TX 186

Sherri Beauchamp, personal chef, the Seasonal Kitchen, Charlotte, NC 188

Kieran O’Mahony, private chef, New York, NY 190

 

8. Management 193

Vaughan Lazar, president and cofounder, Pizza Fusion, Fort Lauderdale, FL 196

Derek Nottingham, general manager, Sodexo Government Services, Fort Meade, MD 199

Heather Laiskonis, general manager, Aldea, New York, NY 202

Liz Quill, general manager, Persephone, Boston, MA 204

Matt Dix, assistant general manager, Ace Hotel, New York, NY 206

Tom Dowling, purchasing director, Rancho Bernardo Inn, San Diego, CA 208

 

9. Wine and Beverages 210

Ben Wiley, owner, Bar Great Harry, Brooklyn, NY 215

Eric Brehm, sommelier, Rancho Bernardo Inn, San Diego, CA 218

Nelson Daquip, wine director, Canlis, Seattle, WA 220

Steve Kelley, regional manager, Lauber Imports, Southern Wine and Spirits, New York, NY 223

Laurie Forster, wine educator and sommelier, the Wine Coach, Easton, MD 226

 

10. Food Artisans 229

Lee Jones, specialty farmer and co-owner, Chef’s Garden, Huron, OH 231

Rob Tod, founder and brewer, Allagash Brewing Company, Portland, ME 234

Richard Cutler, winemaker and owner, the Flying Dutchman Winery, Otter Rock, OR 236

Lisa Averbuch, owner, LOFT Organic Liqueurs, San Francisco, CA 239

Ted Dennard, president and beekeeper, Savannah Bee Company, Savannah, GA 242

Helen Feete, cheesemaker and owner, Meadow Creek Dairy, Galax, VA 245

Peter O’Donovan, cofounder and chef, Nantucket Wild Gourmet & Smokehouse, Chatham, MA 248

 

11. Retail, Distribution, Sales 251

Jon Smith, owner, Cork & Bottle Fine Wines, New Orleans, LA 253

Jennifer Jansen, owner, Milk & Honey Bazaar, Tiverton, RI 256

Thom Fuhrmann, owner, Monkey & Son, Claremont, CA 258

Will Goldfarb, chef-owner, Picnick, WillPowder, WillEquipped, New York, NY 260

Thomas Odermatt, owner, RoliRoti, Napa, CA 262

John Duffy, sales manager, Paris Gourmet, Carlstadt, NJ 265

 

12. Media, Marketing, Public Relations 267

Courtney Knapp, associate producer, food, Martha, New York, NY 272

Gail Simmons, special projects editor, Food & Wine, New York, NY 274

Pamela Mitchell, executive food editor, Everyday with Rachael Ray, New York, NY 277

Stacey Brugeman, freelance writer, Denver, CO 280

Marcia Gagliardi, freelance writer and owner, tablehopper.com, San Francisco, CA 282

Molly Wizenberg, blogger and freelance writer, Orangette, Seattle, WA 285

Jeannie Chen, food stylist and recipe developer, New York, NY 288

Lauren Dellabella, test kitchen manager, Unilever, Englewood Cliffs, NJ 291

Carrie Bachman, publicist and owner, Carrie Bachman PR, Short Hills, NJ 294

Rachel Cole, account coordinator, Strauss Communications, Oakland, CA 296

Ben Fink, photographer and owner, Ben Fink Photography, New York, NY 298

 

13. Assorted Business Services 301

James Feustel, design director, Gary Jacobs Associates, New York, NY 303

Cynthia Billeaud, human resources director, Dinex Group, New York, NY 306

Elizabeth Blau, restaurant consultant and owner, Blau and Associates, Las Vegas, NV 308

John Chitvanni, chairman and founder, National Restaurant Search, Atlanta, GA 310

Rachael Carron, assistant to the chef, wd~50/Wylie Dufresne, New York, NY 313

 

14. Nutrition and Nonprofit 316

Rebecca Cameron, dietitian and owner, Haute Nutrition, Seattle, WA 319

Christine Carroll, founder, CulinaryCorps, New York, NY 322

Ryan Farr, chef-instructor, CHEFS, San Francisco, CA 324

 

15. Education 326

Bob Perry, special projects manager, Sustainable Agriculture and Food Systems, University of Kentucky,

Lexington, KY 329

Melina Kelson-Podolsky, chef-instructor, Kendall College, Chicago, IL 332

James Briscione, chef-instructor, Institute of Culinary Education, New York, NY 334

Joe Pitta, chef-instructor, Minuteman Career & Technical High School, Lexington, MA 337

Naam Pruitt, recreational cooking instructor, St. Louis, MO 340

Gina Stipo, cooking school owner, Ecco la Cucina, Siena, Italy 342

 

Appendices

Culinary and Hospitality Programs 345

Continuing Education and Certification Programs 347

Professional Organizations 349

Scholarships 351

Acknowledgments 352

Index 354

Selected Interview Answers

Thomas Keller, chef-owner of The French Laundry, per se, Bouchon, Bouchon Bakery, and ad hoc in California, New York, and Las Vegas, and cookbook author

What made you decide to become a chef?

There’s not one reason but many. When I started to cook, it was the excitement of working with a team, a bunch of guys in a very high-energy kitchen; that was very exciting to me. It wasn’t necessarily about the quality of food but about the quality of energy, of the team. The first motivation was my mother getting me involved in being a chef where she worked, then the experience with a team. Then really the pivotal point was in 1977, when I went to work with Roland Henin. He made the emotional connection about nurturing, cooking for people, and that really resonated to me. Also, when I was younger, the ritual of repetition, doing the same thing over and over until you get really good at it, pushing yourself to do it better every day, was really appealing.

Rick Bayless, chef-owner of Topolobampo, Frontera Grill, and XOCO in Chicago, TV host and cookbook author

What made you decide to become a chef?

I grew up in the restaurant business and tried to get away from it, but it was just in my blood. I was finding myself thinking about cooking more than about anything else I was doing. For the most part, being a chef is very much like being an artist: You don’t choose to do it; it chooses you.

Scott Wagner, executive chef-owner of ChileCo Catering in San Diego

Describe a typical day.

First thing in the morning, I meet with my director of operations. We review menus, see what needs to happen for the day, and he delegates tasks. Then I generally leave the office to go to my purveyors. I buy fish daily and swing by a couple of farmers’. Then I go to the kitchen, taste the food, see how the cooks are doing. We’re into customizing food, so the dishes are constantly changing. I usually produce a couple of things myself. If we have an event that night, I work it, or I might have appointments lined up for proposals or with vendors. I work 14 to 16 hours a day. Doing the production is by choice.

Ben Wiley, owner of Bar Great Harry and Mission Dolores in Brooklyn

What do you like most about what you do?

The single most important thing is the freedom. I can’t take two weeks off or be home at 6 PM, but I can wake up at 8 AM one day, 10 AM the next. I’m very disciplined so I don’t really do that, but I could. Having no boss—that’s very important. It’s the main reason to go into your own business. My brother and I are very good friends. I do it for one reason, for the freedom, the lifestyle, not for the money.

Lee Jones, farmer and co-owner of the Chef’s Garden in Huron, Ohio

Words of advice for people considering a similar career:

Identify your demand before your produce. That’s a big fallacy that farmers have had over the years, to grow crops and then try to sell them. You have to identify a need before you fulfill it. Many times, people jump into the market too late to make it a profitable thing. That will saturate the market. It’s about doing the due diligence and your homework to identify a real need. Do that by working in areas that you would identify as the craft in which you are interested.

Jason Robinson, Chef at the Inn at Dos Brisas in Washington, Texas

What skills are most important for you to do your job well?

You need to be well rounded. You need people skills to deal with housekeeping, sommeliers, the people in the kitchen. You have to be able to demonstrate to the people around you that you can handle any culinary task. Not many people would want to join a small kitchen if the chef can’t clean the vegetables, butcher the meat, fillet the fish. You need good handling of food products, knife skills, charcuterie, good food knowledge. We have four acres of organic gardens; if you don’t know what the vegetables are, you won’t be able to work with them.

Courtney Knapp, Associate Producer for Food at The Martha Stewart Show, New York

What do you like most about what you do?

It’s something new every day.  It offers a lot of what I loved about being in the kitchen: variety, stress, endurance, creativity, a connection to food.
 

Culinary Careers opens with three chapters that cover three different career-building stages: Getting Started features information on educational needs for beginners and career changers alike, describing programs and schools around the country, along with some top international programs. This chapter also offers tips for resume writing and job interviews. Career Development and Growth gives advice on advancing one’s career, from developing a palate to acquiring additional education and credentials. It also discusses how to change jobs, which organizations to join and trade shows to attend, and networking both in person and online. The third chapter, Ownership and Entrepreneurship, addresses the many entrepreneurial opportunities that the food industry affords, from owning a restaurant or a food product company to a public relations firm or a catering company. It covers the pros and cons of ownership, the components of a business plan, permits and certifications, and investors.

The most unique feature of Culinary Careers are chapters 5-15, which include the exclusive interviews with both food-world luminaries and those on their way up, allowing readers to discover what a day in the life is really like in diverse areas of the culinary world. They also offer their thoughts on salaries in their field and what they look for in a new hire, for up-to-date, frank information on what one can expect to earn when working in the food industry. Those job category chapters are:

 

Lessons from the Stratosphere
Cooking
Pastry and Baking
Catering, Events, Personal and Private Chef Work
Management
Wine and Beverages

Food Artisans
Retail, Distribution, Sales
Media, Marketing, Public Relations
Assorted Business Services
Nutrition and Nonprofit
Education

 

The 89 interviews include chefs such as Thomas Keller (California, New York, Las Vegas), Daniel Boulud (New York, Palm Beach, Las Vegas, Vancouver, China), Dan Barber, David Chang (New York), Rick Bayless, Graham Elliot Bowles (Chicago), Joseph Wrede (Taos, New Mexico), and Kelly Liken (Vail, Colorado); pastry chefs such as Gale Gand (Chicago), François Payard (New York, Las Vegas, Brazil), Mindy Segal (Chicago), Erin McKenna (New York, Los Angeles), Michael Laiskonis (New York), and cake designer Elisa Strauss (New York); people from the media world such as Ruth Reichl (author, former editor-in-chief of Gourmet), Michael Ruhlman (author), Gail Simmons (Food & Wine , Top Chef ), Molly Wizenberg (the blog Orangette, Bon Appétit ), and Susan Spungen (food stylist, former food editor, Martha Stewart Living); food artisans such as Zingerman’s Ari Weinzweig, Chef’s Garden Lee Jones, Allagash Brewing Company’s Rob Tod, and Savannah Bee Company’s Ted Dennard; as well as sommeliers, caterers, company owners, media producers, stylists, photographers, publicists, consultants, educators, and more.

 

Culinary Careers (352 pages, $16.99) is available for sale at bookstores nationwide, online at amazon.com, and at ICE.

 

About the authors:
RICK SMILOW is the president and CEO of the Institute of Culinary Education (ICE).  During his tenure, ICE has grown to become one of the nation’s leading culinary education centers, winning two coveted awards from the International Association of Culinary Professionals.  Smilow has an MBA from the Kellogg School and has held corporate and entrepreneurial marketing positions prior to acquiring ICE in 1995 and landing his dream job.  He is also a director of Daniel Boulud’s Dinex Restaurant Group and a board member of City Harvest and Careers through Culinary Arts Program. 

ANNE E. MCBRIDE is a food writer and editor. With famed pastry chef François Payard, she wrote Chocolate Epiphany (Clarkson Potter, 2008) and Bite Size (William Morrow, 2006). After being a senior cookbook editor at Hippocrene Books, she has been working as editor and writer of ICE’s tri-annual publication, The Main Course, since 2004 and is the director of the school’s Center for Food Media. McBride is the director of the Experimental Cuisine Collective, an interdisciplinary group of scientists, chefs, media personalities, academics, and food enthusiasts that examines the connections between food and science. She is working towards a Ph.D. in food studies at New York University, where she also teaches, and sits on the board of the Association for the Study of Food and Society and the New York Women’s Culinary Alliance.