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People
of The Institute
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Alumni
Profiles |
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Frank
DeCarlo, Culinary Arts '86 |
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Frank
DeCarlo is interested in basics. The menu at Peasant,
the New York restaurant where he is chef/owner,
offers the simple pleasures of life. And as a
student at the Institute, DeCarlo discovered that
the straightforward foundations of cooking were
key. "Good understanding of basic technique
is the most important thing you can know,"
he says. "If you understand a concept and
how it works, from there you can go in any direction
you want."
Much
of DeCarlo's cooking style is inspired by that
of the Italian region of Puglia, where he has
worked periodically over the years, and he strives
for an almost naked simplicity. "My dishes
are two- and three-part dishes for the most part,
and most of them are served in terra cotta,"
he reports. "They're non-contrived. There's
no food styling, no garnishes going on. I don't
have infused oils and emulsions and pretty colors
in squeeze bottles for decorating dishes. For
instance, now I'm doing 7- and 8-pound suckling
pigs on rotisseries, and they're served over a
roasted potato baked in the coals. That's a two-part
plate. It's pure and beautiful."
Peasant
features an open kitchen where almost all of the
cooking is fueled with either wood or coal. "My
pasta cooker is really the only thing with gas,"
says DeCarlo. "Even the three sauté
burners are infused with a gas ring on top, so
they burn both charcoal and gas."
Since
opening a year and a half ago, the restaurant has
developed a reputation as a chefs' hangout, and
DeCarlo thinks he knows why. "I've had Bocuse,
Boulud, Ducasse and Palladin in my kitchen,"
he says. "They all started out in kitchens
in the basement working with coal and wood, and
they come and hang out in my kitchen and talk and
reminisce. And like everybody, they love the simplicity." |
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