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By Nick Mautone, General
Manager of Gramercy Tavern
Many people ask, given
the incredible number and diversity of great wines in the marketplace,
how does a wine come to be one of the 400 selections on the
Gramercy Tavern wine list? Competition is stiff. Beverage Director
Paul Grieco tastes an average of three to five wines for every
“slot” on the list, which means he samples a minimum
of 1,200 wines each year. (The real number is much higher, though,
since some slots change as many as four times in a single year.)
First, any wine we purchase has to
taste good. We do not buy wines for their cachet or because
they are hot on the auction market. They must be delicious.
In fact, several wines that we have bought for many years are
now coming into their own and gaining very favorable stature
and reviews. These include Rubissow-Sargent Cabernet from Napa,
as well as the wines of Sinskey Vineyards in Carneros and Babcock
Vineyards in Santa Barbara.
Second, the wine must act as a condiment
to the meal. Some wines are awesome on their own, yet don't
match particularly well with many foods. We endeavor to purchase
wine that will complement a meal the same way that a pinch of
salt can enhance a dish. Of course, no wine matches with all
foods. For example, one of my favorite pairings is Condrieu
from the South of France with lobster. This wine is made from
the Viognier (white) grape. Due to its impression of fruit on
the nose, but firmness and acidity on the palate, it is a great
wine for lobster, which lends it roundness and sweetness. On
the other hand, the same wine does not match well with grilled
foods, such as grilled chicken, as it can pick up harsh astringency
from the smoky flavor.
Lastly, to make the cut, a wine must offer
great value. The wines on our list range in price from $20 to
almost $1,000. No matter the price, wine offers value by providing
bang for the buck. It is not the price you pay, but the pleasure
you get in return that is important when it comes to choosing
wine. Great bang for the buck comes when the wine satisfies
your personal flavor profile and budget at same time, although
naturally a high-end wine requiring a serious investment must
be truly special.
Fall 2001 |
